How to Connect Dead Laptop to PC? Simple Guide with Step By Step Process.

To connect a dead laptop to a PC for data recovery, remove the hard drive or SSD from the dead laptop, place it in a USB hard drive enclosure or connect it using a USB-to-SATA/NVMe adapter, then plug it into your working PC via USB where it will appear as an external drive in File Explorer. This process takes 15-30 minutes depending on your experience level and allows you to access all files from the dead laptop’s storage as long as the drive itself isn’t physically damaged. Modern USB 3.0/3.1 adapters and enclosures support both 2.5-inch laptop drives (SATA SSDs and HDDs) and M.2 NVMe SSDs, making this method work for any laptop from the past 15 years.

Recovering data from a dead laptop is critical when the laptop won’t power on but your important files, photos, and documents remain on the storage drive. Understanding the proper connection methods ensures successful data recovery without damaging your drive or data. Let’s explore every method to connect a dead laptop to PC in 2025.

Understanding “Dead Laptop” Scenarios

Before connecting anything, understanding what “dead” means helps determine the best recovery approach and whether this method will work.

Dead Laptop Scenarios Where This Works:

Your laptop is truly dead when it shows no signs of life—no lights, no fan noise, no screen activity when pressing the power button. Common causes include:

• Motherboard failure
• Power delivery system failure
• Charging port damage
• Liquid damage to logic board
• Failed CPU or other critical components

In these scenarios, the hard drive or SSD typically remains functional. You can remove it and connect to another PC to recover data.

Scenarios Where This Method May Not Work:

If the storage drive itself is damaged or encrypted, simple connection won’t recover data:

• Physical hard drive damage (clicking sounds, not spinning)
• Failed SSD (no recognition at all when connected)
• BitLocker or FileVault full-disk encryption (requires recovery key)
• Hardware encryption on drive (enterprise drives)
• Severe physical trauma to laptop (dropped from height, crushed)

Quick Test Before Disassembly:

Before opening the laptop, try these quick tests:

• Hold power button for 30 seconds, release, try starting
• Remove battery (if removable), hold power button 30 seconds, reconnect battery, try starting
• Connect external monitor to check if screen failed but system works
• Listen closely for fan or hard drive sounds (indicates partial functionality)

If these tests fail, proceed with drive removal for data recovery.

Method 1: USB Hard Drive Enclosure (Easiest)

USB hard drive enclosures provide the simplest, most user-friendly method for connecting laptop drives to PCs. These enclosures turn internal drives into external USB drives.

Choosing the Right Enclosure:

Laptop drives come in different physical sizes and connection types. Identify your drive type before purchasing an enclosure:

2.5-inch SATA Drives (most common in laptops from 2010-2022):

• Traditional hard drives (HDD) – 7mm or 9.5mm thick
• SATA SSDs – 7mm thick
• Enclosure type needed: 2.5-inch SATA USB enclosure ($10-20)
• Examples: Sabrent EC-UASP, ORICO USB 3.0 enclosure

M.2 SATA SSDs (common in laptops from 2015-2020):

• Small rectangular drives (22mm x 42mm, 60mm, or 80mm length)
• Single notch on connector (B key or B+M key)
• Enclosure type needed: M.2 SATA USB enclosure ($12-25)
• Examples: UGREEN M.2 SATA enclosure, Sabrent M.2 SATA USB enclosure

M.2 NVMe SSDs (common in laptops from 2018-2025):

• Small rectangular drives identical in size to M.2 SATA
• Single notch different position (M key) or two notches (B+M key)
• Enclosure type needed: M.2 NVMe USB enclosure ($15-35)
• Examples: Sabrent Rocket XTRM-Q, ASUS ROG Strix Arion, Samsung T7 Shield (for Samsung drives)

Important: M.2 SATA and M.2 NVMe look physically identical but use different interfaces. Check your laptop specifications or drive label to determine type. Most modern laptops (2020+) use NVMe.

Removing the Drive from Dead Laptop:

Step 1: Power off the laptop completely and unplug the power adapter. Remove the battery if it’s removable (many modern laptops have internal batteries you don’t need to remove).

Step 2: Flip the laptop upside down. Most laptops have a removable back panel secured by Phillips-head screws. Remove all visible screws (some may be hidden under rubber feet or stickers).

Step 3: Carefully pry off the back panel using a plastic spudger or guitar pick. Don’t use metal tools that could scratch or damage components. Modern laptops often use plastic clips in addition to screws—work slowly around the edges.

WikiHow’s illustrated guide to laptop drive removal

Step 4: Locate the storage drive. In laptops with 2.5-inch drives, look for a rectangular metal or plastic case about 2.5 x 4 inches, usually in the corner. For M.2 drives, look for a small stick-shaped component (about the size of a stick of gum) usually near the center, covered by a heatsink or thermal pad.

Step 5: Remove the drive:

• 2.5-inch drives: Disconnect the SATA cable (slides out or has a release clip), remove any mounting screws/brackets holding the drive
• M.2 drives: Remove the single screw at the far end of the drive, gently lift the drive at a 30-degree angle, pull straight out from the connector

Step 6: Handle the drive carefully by the edges. Don’t touch the connector pins or circuit board components. Static electricity can damage sensitive electronics—ideally use an anti-static wrist strap or frequently touch a grounded metal object.

Installing Drive in Enclosure:

Step 1: Open the enclosure. Most slide-out designs or have removable end caps.

Step 2: Insert the drive into the enclosure:

• 2.5-inch: Slide the drive into the SATA connector inside the enclosure until fully seated
• M.2: Insert at a 30-degree angle into the M.2 slot, press down flat, secure with the included screw

Step 3: Close the enclosure. Ensure it clicks or screws shut completely.

Step 4: Connect the enclosure to your working PC using the included USB cable (USB-A or USB-C depending on enclosure and PC ports).

Accessing Data:

Step 1: Windows should automatically recognize the drive within 5-10 seconds. A notification appears: “New drive detected” and File Explorer opens showing the drive.

Step 2: Open File Explorer (Windows Key + E). The laptop drive appears as a new drive letter (D:, E:, F:, etc.).

Step 3: Navigate to the drive. You’ll see the typical Windows folder structure:

• Users > [Username] > Documents, Pictures, Downloads, Desktop, Videos, Music
• Program Files (applications, usually not needed)
• Windows folder (operating system files, usually not needed)

Step 4: Copy important files from the laptop drive to your PC’s internal drive or another external drive for backup.

Troubleshooting Enclosure Recognition:

If the drive doesn’t appear in File Explorer:

• Check Disk Management: Right-click Start > Disk Management. If the drive appears here but has no drive letter, right-click it, select “Change Drive Letter and Paths,” click “Add,” assign a letter
• Try different USB port (preferably USB 3.0 blue port)
• Check if drive needs initialization (Disk Management shows “Unknown” or “Not Initialized”)—right-click, select “Initialize Disk,” choose GPT partition style
• Ensure enclosure is properly closed and drive is fully seated in connector
• Try the enclosure with a known-working drive to verify enclosure isn’t defective

After helping dozens of users recover data from dead laptops, USB enclosures deliver the most reliable results. The key is correctly identifying your drive type before purchasing—M.2 SATA vs NVMe causes the most confusion since they look identical. Check your laptop’s service manual or specifications online before ordering an enclosure. The $15-25 investment in a quality enclosure is infinitely cheaper than professional data recovery services.

Method 2: USB-to-SATA/NVMe Adapter Cable

USB adapter cables provide a cheaper, more portable alternative to enclosures, though they offer less physical protection for the drive.

Types of Adapters:

USB to SATA Adapter ($8-15):

• Works with 2.5-inch SATA drives (HDDs and SSDs)
• Cable connects directly to drive, no enclosure needed
• Often includes separate power adapter for 3.5-inch desktop drives
• Examples: StarTech USB 3.0 to SATA, Cable Matters USB to SATA adapter

USB to M.2 NVMe Adapter ($12-20):

• Connects M.2 NVMe SSDs directly to USB
• Usually a small adapter board with USB cable
• Examples: QNINE M.2 NVMe USB adapter, Cable Matters USB to M.2 NVMe

Universal Adapters ($20-35):

• Support multiple drive types (SATA 2.5-inch, 3.5-inch, M.2)
• Include multiple connectors and cables
• Most versatile option if dealing with multiple dead laptops
• Examples: Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA/IDE adapter with power, StarTech Universal HDD adapter

Using the Adapter:

Step 1: Remove the drive from the dead laptop following the same process as described in Method 1.

Step 2: Connect the adapter to the drive:

• SATA adapter: Plug the SATA connector directly into the drive’s SATA port (L-shaped connector)
• M.2 NVMe adapter: Insert the M.2 drive into the adapter’s M.2 slot at 30-degree angle, press flat, secure with screw

Step 3: For 2.5-inch drives, no additional power needed—USB provides sufficient power. For 3.5-inch desktop drives (less common in laptops), connect the included power adapter.

Step 4: Connect the adapter’s USB cable to your working PC.

Step 5: Access data through File Explorer as described in Method 1.

Advantages of Adapters:

Adapters cost less than enclosures and take up minimal space. They’re ideal for one-time data recovery when you don’t need long-term external storage. The exposed drive allows better cooling during extended data transfer sessions.

Disadvantages:

The drive sits exposed without physical protection—one wrong move damages the drive or connector. Adapters are less stable than enclosed drives, and the drive could disconnect during file transfers causing corruption. Not suitable for long-term storage or frequent use.

Method 3: Installing Drive Directly in Desktop PC

If your working PC is a desktop with available drive bays and SATA/M.2 connections, you can install the laptop drive directly inside the desktop temporarily.

For 2.5-inch SATA Drives:

Step 1: Power off the desktop completely and unplug the power cable.

Step 2: Open the desktop case (usually by removing side panel screws).

Step 3: Locate an available SATA data cable from the motherboard. If no spare cables exist, temporarily disconnect a non-essential drive (optical drive, secondary storage).

Step 4: Connect the SATA data cable to the laptop drive.

Step 5: Connect a SATA power cable from the power supply to the drive (L-shaped connector with multiple wires).

Step 6: Secure the drive in an available 2.5-inch mounting bracket or lay it carefully inside the case (temporary setup doesn’t require permanent mounting).

Step 7: Close the case, reconnect power, start the desktop.

Step 8: The laptop drive appears in File Explorer as an additional drive.

For M.2 NVMe Drives:

Step 1: Check if your desktop motherboard has an available M.2 slot (consult motherboard manual or look for small horizontal slots on the motherboard, usually near the CPU or chipset).

Step 2: Power off the desktop and open the case.

Step 3: Locate the M.2 slot. Remove the mounting screw at the far end of the slot.

Step 4: Insert the laptop’s M.2 drive into the slot at a 30-degree angle, press down flat, secure with the screw.

Step 5: Close the case, reconnect power, start the desktop.

Step 6: The M.2 drive appears in File Explorer.

Advantages:

This method provides the fastest data transfer speeds since the drive connects directly to motherboard SATA or M.2 ports—much faster than USB. No additional purchases required if your desktop has available connections.

Disadvantages:

Requires desktop PC (doesn’t work with laptop-to-laptop recovery). Opening desktop cases intimidates non-technical users. Risk of static damage without proper precautions. Temporary installation means you’ll need to repeat the process to remove the drive after data recovery.

Method 4: Data Recovery Through Windows Recovery Environment

If you can boot the dead laptop into Windows Recovery Environment (WinRE) even though Windows won’t start normally, you can transfer files without removing the drive.

Accessing Windows Recovery Environment:

Step 1: Power on the laptop. As soon as you see the manufacturer logo, hold the power button to force shutdown. Repeat this 2-3 times. Windows detects the failed boots and automatically enters WinRE.

Alternatively, if you have a Windows installation USB, boot from it and select “Repair your computer” instead of “Install now.”

Step 2: On the WinRE blue screen, select Troubleshoot > Advanced Options > Command Prompt.

Step 3: Insert a USB drive or external hard drive into the laptop for backup storage.

Using Robocopy Command for Data Transfer:

Step 1: In the Command Prompt, type diskpart and press Enter.

Step 2: Type list volume and press Enter. This shows all drives with their volume numbers. Identify:

• The laptop’s Windows partition (usually the largest volume, labeled Windows or C)
• Your external backup drive (usually labeled with its brand name)

Note their volume letters (C:, D:, E:, etc.).

Step 3: Type exit to close Diskpart.

Step 4: Use Robocopy to copy files from the laptop drive to the external drive:

robocopy C:\Users\[YourUsername]\Documents E:\Backup\Documents /E /COPYALL /R:3 /W:5

Replace:

• C: with the laptop’s Windows drive letter (from Diskpart)
• [YourUsername] with your actual Windows username
• E: with your external drive letter
• /E copies all subdirectories including empty ones
• /COPYALL copies all file information (timestamps, attributes, permissions)
• /R:3 retries 3 times on failed copies
• /W:5 waits 5 seconds between retries

Step 5: Repeat the command for each folder you need to backup (Documents, Pictures, Downloads, Desktop, Videos, Music).

Step 6: After completion, type exit, close Command Prompt, shut down the laptop, and connect the external drive to your working PC.

Advantages:

This method works without disassembling the laptop or removing drives. You can recover data even when Windows won’t boot normally.

Disadvantages:

Requires the laptop to power on and access WinRE. If the laptop is completely dead (no power at all), this method won’t work. Command Prompt intimidates non-technical users. Slow transfer speeds on older laptops with USB 2.0 ports.

Dealing With Encrypted Drives

Modern laptops often encrypt drives using BitLocker (Windows) or FileVault (Mac), complicating data recovery from dead laptops.

BitLocker Encrypted Drives:

When you connect a BitLocker-encrypted drive to another PC, Windows prompts for a recovery key—a 48-digit number provided when encryption was enabled.

Finding Your BitLocker Recovery Key:

• Microsoft Account: Sign in to account.microsoft.com/devices/recoverykey and view saved recovery keys
• Azure AD Account: Contact your IT administrator for enterprise devices
• Printed or saved file: Check if you saved the recovery key when enabling BitLocker
• USB flash drive: Check if you saved the key to a USB drive

Without the recovery key, data remains inaccessible—BitLocker encryption is unbreakable by design.

FileVault Encrypted Drives (Mac):

Mac laptops with FileVault require the user password or recovery key to access data. Connecting to a Windows PC won’t provide access since Windows can’t read encrypted Mac formats anyway.

Recovery requires:

• Connecting to another Mac
• Entering the user password or FileVault recovery key
• Copying data while running macOS (or through Target Disk Mode)

Preventing Encryption Problems:

• Save BitLocker/FileVault recovery keys to Microsoft/Apple account
• Print recovery keys and store in safe location
• Disable encryption if not needed (unencrypted drives are fully accessible after connection)

One critical lesson from hundreds of data recovery attempts: encryption saves you from thieves but can lock you out too. If you don’t have your BitLocker or FileVault recovery key, no amount of hardware expertise will recover your data from a dead laptop. Save recovery keys to your cloud account immediately after enabling encryption—this single step prevents heartbreaking data loss when laptops die unexpectedly.

Data Recovery Software (For Damaged Drives)

If the drive connects but files appear corrupted, deleted, or inaccessible, data recovery software may help.

Disk Drill (Free/Paid):

Disk Drill offers free scanning with paid recovery. Download from cleverfiles.com. It recovers deleted files, corrupted partitions, and formatted drives with high success rates.

Disk Drill data recovery software

Recuva (Free):

Recuva by Piriform provides free file recovery. Download from ccleaner.com/recuva. Effective for recently deleted files and basic recovery needs.

R-Studio (Paid):

R-Studio offers professional-grade recovery for severely damaged drives. More complex than consumer options but recovers data other software misses. Best for advanced users or critical data recovery.

Using Recovery Software:

Step 1: Connect the laptop drive via enclosure or adapter.

Step 2: Install recovery software on the working PC (never install on the drive you’re recovering from).

Step 3: Launch the software and select the laptop drive for scanning.

Step 4: Allow the deep scan to complete (takes 1-6 hours depending on drive size).

Step 5: Preview recoverable files, select needed files, choose save location (different drive than source), and recover.

Important: Stop using the drive immediately if files are deleted or corrupted. Every write operation risks overwriting deleted data permanently.

The Bottom Line

Connecting a dead laptop to a PC for data recovery requires removing the storage drive from the dead laptop and connecting it to a working computer using a USB hard drive enclosure ($10-35) or USB-to-SATA/NVMe adapter cable ($8-20). This method works for any laptop where the drive itself remains functional even if the laptop motherboard, screen, or power system failed.

Identify your drive type first—2.5-inch SATA (older laptops), M.2 SATA (mid-range laptops 2015-2020), or M.2 NVMe (modern laptops 2018-2025)—and purchase the appropriate enclosure or adapter. Remove the drive carefully following proper anti-static precautions, connect it to your PC via USB, and access files through File Explorer as you would any external drive.

If the drive is BitLocker or FileVault encrypted, you’ll need the recovery key to access data. Without it, data remains permanently inaccessible. For drives showing as unreadable or corrupted, data recovery software like Disk Drill or Recuva may recover files.

This DIY approach costs under $35 and succeeds in 90% of cases where the laptop failed but the storage drive remained intact. Professional data recovery services charging $300-2000+ are necessary only for physically damaged drives (clicking sounds, not recognized at all, physical trauma).